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What sits on each floor, which hours are quiet enough to read the labels, and how to get up to the museum terrace for a coffee without buying a ticket.

€12 gets you into the only marble stadium on earth. What the ticket covers, when the running track reopens, and how to build a half-day around it in Pangrati.

One €20 ticket gets you the 150m climb and the Bronze Charioteer. Lunch terraces, a mountain village and a Byzantine detour fill the rest of the day.























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